Biking and Soccer

The continental breakfast is very continental so for those of us who need more than bread and bad coffee for breakfast, the in-room mini-kitchen is a plus. While checking out the continental offerings, I found Maria and a very dishevelled Steve in the lobby. It seems that after their commute up to Vancouver via ferry, they arrived to a room with 2 beds for 5 people. Unable (unwilling??) to accommodate the reservation for 5, the hotel gave them a key to the small room and basically said goodnight. I asked them why they didn't call our room, as we could've easily put another kid in with us. (Maria also had this idea...) Turns out that Steve slept on the floor. So tonight we will have an extra kid with us; Julia gets a big sister in Sarah for the next few days.

After the horrible experience with the car yesterday, I get on the phone to Thrifty Rental car to see what we can do about the slightly non-functioning brakes and the fully non-functioning A/C. After many phone calls back and forth, and many minutes on hold (on the cell phone! with roaming charges!) it's decided by Thrifty that the only option is for us to take the car to a local repair shop in Vancouver, as changing out the car would require us to wait for one to be driven up from Seattle. On the phone now to the repair shop, I find out that not only are they NOT just down the road (but 45 minutes away) they have no idea how long the repair will take. Not willing to take a day of his vacation to deal with the repair of this rental P.O.C., Brian makes the executive decision not to get it fixed. (I suspect that the car will be returned with some burned out rotors.) I'm a little concerned for the safety factor, but have decided to follow Brian's lead...

It's a beautiful day in Vancouver. The sun in shining and it's mildly warm. We hear from someone that it's the nicest weather all year. A perfect day for a bike ride. We are just over the bridge in North Vancouver from downtown. It's kind of like staying in Brooklyn - only cleaner. I still cannot understand the layout of this town. There are too many bridges. Is it an island? I never do find out...

Once at the bike shop (one of MANY) we inundate the foreign shop owners - the gal at the counter is German?Dutch?Swede? and the managers are Korean - and we get everyone outfitted with bikes. For numerous reasons, we decide on a tow-along bike for Edwin. He is EXTREMELY less. than. pleased. I'm not as convinced that the tow-along is necessary, but as I've been chastised/spoken to in the past for not backing my husband up, I keep uncharacteristically silent. This decision brings on many tears from Edwin (tears! I know! he's usually the happiest kid alive. I can think of only a few times that he's been reduced to tears). Part of the problem with the tow-along is that the handle bars are too low. We ask the shop to adjust them, and they flat out refuse to do it (I suspect that they don't know how). We take off toward Stanley Park (all 11 of us) and pass another - much bigger - bike shop on the way. I politely ask one of the bike guys if he had a wrench to adjust the handle bars. Sure! No Problem! he says and lickety split - handle bars are higher. All he asks is that we please not tell our shop that he adjusted them. Sure! No Problem!

Ed is still is tears. Brian is barking at him. And the 11 of us make quite a scene biking along the one-way path around Stanley Park. We follow the water's edge and stop many times for bathrooms, Kodak moments, etc. Ed is still crying. At the rate (that I now see) we are moving, I comment (too loudly) that Ed would have been just fine on his own bike. Whoops. Now there is a bit of a domestic between the husband and myself. Aidan moves in slyly for the rescue and offers to bike with Ed. Aidan and Ed take off and lead the pack. Ed loves it! That's all it took. Who knew? (Nana did because, "They're all good kids.")

As the sun is out for a record breaking third day, throngs of Canadians have come out to sunbathe at the various parks and beaches we pass on our bike ride. We stop at a beach and all the kids take off for the water. I shudder to think how the bike ride will end - if my boys wind up soaked and sandy, which, thank goodness, they don't (much in part to Maria, who took off after them to get pictures.) As it's lunchtime, we stop in a field overlooking the water and grab some hot dogs and hamburgers for an impromptu picnic. The picnic wraps up when the group behind us lights up and the smell of a Dave Matthews Band concert wafts over to us. Which led to an interesting discussion about Canadian drug laws. I notice (again) that while this city claims to be uber eco-friendly, the amount of cigarette (and other) smoke seems to directly contradict the green/granola/earth loving vibe.

Almost done with our 7 mile loop around the park, some of the more hearty bike-riders decide that they want to go around again - this time without stopping every 100 feet. We decide to break off boys vs. girls and go our separate ways: the girls go shopping; the boys bike again. After we girls return our bikes to the shop, we make our way to a Starbucks (for the bathroom) and then to Safeway for some refreshments. Happily, we can use our club card numbers to get extra savings! (which helps because Canada is expensive. Like $10 for a box of tampons expensive. And not the jumbo box either.) After buying some ketchup flavored potato chips (which I very much enjoy and everyone else thinks are disgusting: the same people who happily douse their french fries with ketchup for the Exact. Same. Taste.) we make our way down to the store that sells beer and wine to pick up some grown-up refreshments. We settle on a local wine at an appalling $9 and a 12 pack of Moosehead for $21.99. 12 Pack. Of Canadian beer. Made in Canada. Not imported.

While the men have the kids back in Safeway, Maria and I take the adult beverages back to the parking lot, but get a little lost trying to find it. I am carrying the 12 pack of Moosehead. She is carrying a bottle of wine and a small backpack. We make an interesting pair. Especially when we ask for some help from the local sanitation engineers working in the alley. They think we are a riot and are actually quite helpful in locating our parking lot for us. Adding the grand total of helpful Canadians to 4 at this point in the trip.

Back to the hotel for a tiny rest and quick change and then it's off again to the next activity. Soccer match! Vancouver Whitecaps vs. Columbus Crew. As we squeaked and crawled through horrible traffic to get there, we are amazed at the number of fans who have shown up for the game. We had no idea that soccer was this popular in Vancouver - but perhaps it's because it's only one of two local teams they have. And the other team didn't do so well recently. Against the Americans. Ahhhh.... now we might be getting somewhere on the chilly reception we've been noticing this trip.

We manage to get 11 tickets to this apparently sold out game - and most of the seats are together which is a small miracle. The purchase went rather (too) slowly and we missed the very beginning of the game - Maria was *not* pleased. Our seats are behind the goal at the top of the funky stadium ("Temporary Stadium, they're building a permanent one but it's not done" -Brian) and we have great views. We're surrounded by Whitecaps fans - with the exception of the row of Brits in front of us. Five minutes into the game, Sarah announces that these players and this game is awful. Maria concurs and comments that she's seen 16 year old girls play better soccer. The Brits- who we've befriended by the end of the game - also agree with this assessment and wonder if all MLS soccer is this bad. Maria assures them that it's not. Home Depot (Canada) has given away these accordion folded cardboard noisemakers to all the fans, and Ed goes to town making as much noise as possible. He's in heaven. Not in heaven? The Whitecaps and their fans, as they lose to the Columbus Crew. When the Columbus goalkeeper stopped a PK to deny the Whitecaps their only scoring opportunity - I was the sole cheerleader for the Americans. I was loudly obnoxious in my area of the stands and it felt great. At the end of the game, the Brits taught us all a "lovely" soccer cheer that involved showing off your (clothed) backside. I'm sure the 27 beers that they consumed helped make the cheer even that more fun for them. Ed thought it was a riot.

Back at the hotel - the big kids hung out in the Dulacs' room and the adults came back to our room where the beer was consumed and the chips were eaten. It was a fun and relaxing end to a great day. And a great end to my 40th year.

Crossing the Border

Renting a minivan is not cheap. It's cheaper to rent two small (even two mid size) cars. This is why we have a reservation for 2 cars for pick up at the Seattle Airport. Factoring in cost and time I decide that taking a cab would only be about $25 more than taking public transportation to pick the cars up. (I was off a little, but it was so worth it.) After leaving the kids at the hotel (watching TV) Brian and I find ourselves at the very crowded Thrifty Rental Counter. They pull up our reservation and the very nice Thrifty agent (NOT the one helping me, but the one next to her who overhears our situation) gets us a minivan for the same price as the two cars we were about to rent. That's $53/day vs. the $190/day online price. Plus the benefit of only one car to have to deal with. Score!

We find our Chrysler Grand Caravan (uh-oh...) and proceed to the check-out at the exit. I mention to the lot attendant who is inspecting the car that the A/C doesn't seem to be working correctly. She replies, "It's been in the sun all day - it takes a little while to get going." with a you idiot smirk on her face. It's now 11:40 a.m. We are in Seattle where I'd be surprised if temps ever get over 80. I drive a minivan for a living and come from the effing desert for God's sake. I know how long it's supposed to take A/C to kick in. Really? Who's the idiot here? Unfortunately for our comfort level later in the trip, we are in a bit of a time crunch and I don't push the issue. We leave the lot to make our way back across Seattle.

Remember all of those Lions? Yeah, they're having that parade. Biggest one in Seattle's history. Right now. As we try to get back to the hotel. We get a panicked phone call from Julia - the maids are at the rooms wanting to start the check-out process. "Go ahead and take all the stuff out of the rooms and we'll meet you outside," I instruct from the passenger seat. We make some wrong turns. We get on some express lanes that take us farther out of town than we wanted. We get back into the city to find epic traffic due to construction. (Did I mention that Seattle is full of one-way streets? yeah, not so easy to navigate...) At one point, traffic isn't moving at all and we decide to pull through the coolest coffee drive-thru ever. We finally make it back to the hotel. It's 1:00 p.m. The ride should have taken 25 minutes. The kids are antsy, as is the hotel staff. We hurry up and load the car - and get on the road towards Canada.

The ride to Canada is relatively smooth - most of the congested traffic is headed the opposite direction, so we sail through Seattle and the rest of Washington State. It's about 45 minutes into our ride that we discover (well, I already knew) that the A/C does not, in fact, work. At all. It's a warm day in the sun, on the road. Too warm. Uncomfortably warm. Edwin threatens car-sickness (but it never materializes, thank goodness) and after a quick pit stop at McDonalds for bathrooms and food, we're off again. We arrive at the border and the wait is about 30 minutes - I guess not too bad as border waits go. We are serenaded on the radio by the Bare Naked Ladies and their wishes of a million dollars as we creep towards Canada - and I take this as a great sign. That and the cooler breeze coming from the now open windows.

We cross into Canada on some back road that takes us through God only knows where. When we hit civilization - in the form of a Tim Horton's - we must stop for more bathrooms and some donut goodness. In the parking lot, a nice young man drives by us, says something in Hawaiian and makes the hang loose sign. A bit confused, I look at our car and see that it has Hawaii license plates. I just smile and wave to him and let him think we are from Hawaii - Aloha!

We think that we are now close to Vancouver, and that we'll be at the hotel soon. We are wrong. We've hit the outskirts of the city at rush hour. A city full of BRIDGES and summer CONSTRUCTION. We creep along (in traffic so bad, I haven't seen the likes of it since we tried to drive into Paris 3 years ago) and finally reach our hotel in North Vancouver at 6:00. Brian is stick-a-fork-in-me done and I do what I can to keep the kids away from him while he rests in sub-zero A/C hotel room bliss. Luckily? the pool is right outside our room (suite with 2 bedrooms, mini kitchen and living room) and Ed and Julia happily play for an hour.

It's my turn to drive when it's time for dinner. It's now when I discover that the brakes in the car are shot. Squeaking, squealing, grinding shot. UGH. We make it to the restaurant - which is not good- but the waitress is very friendly. The *only* friendly Canadian we will encounter for some time, actually. We squeak our way home via a grocery store to stock up on some supplies for the next few days. The US dollar? Not quite as strong as the Canadian. Not too bad, but still. Canadian prices for food? Seriously crazy. Super expensive- even with the "club card price." We find a few things - particularly the yummy potato chip flavors you can't get at home - but don't find any beer or wine. I didn't think that we could buy alcohol at the grocery store, but I kind of hoped maybe I'd be wrong this one time. You *can* buy beer and wine making "kits" - just not the finished product.

Back to the hotel - and a little TV watching - and we all decide to call it a day. It's taken us all day to get to a place that should have taken 3 hours. Welcome to Canada.

Independence Day

It's the 4th of July. There's no parade for us. No cub scout event - no backyard BBQ, no picnic. What does the 4th of July mean as a tourist? It means a FANTASTIC day for museums. Going to big city attractions on a holiday is definitely the way to go. We were in New York for Thanksgiving day and toured both the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island with minimal crowds. In Seattle for the 4th meant the same thing - few crowds at the big tourist attractions. If you are willing to give up the tradition of parade/BBQ/hometown celebration, taking advantage of sightseeing on a holiday is a MUST.

We started with the Science Museum - and with super kid-friendly exhibits (I believe they were all kid-centered) plus the bonus of no crowds - it made for a great museum day for the family. We have been extremely lucky this trip - the whole family is enjoying all of the museums that are included in our City Pass. Could be that the museums are really well done. Could be that my kids are just museum type kids. Could be a mixture of both. But we certainly struck gold with the Seattle Science Museum. Another bonus? It's across the street from our hotel. We spend a few hours exploring part of the museum - hands on, interactive, dinosaurs, biology, chemistry and physics. Lots of physics. Our tickets include a choice of IMAX movies and the kids all agree on "Call of the Wild." Ordinarily, I don't care for the 3D versions of movies (ever since watching Captain EO at Disneyland) and I especially don't care for the added cost of these movies, but the ticket was included, so I sat back and tried to enjoy. It's a wonderful movie (even more wonderful, I suppose, if the 4 year old behind you actually shut up for any of it - and the parents didn't even try to quiet her. SOOO annoying) A great story about caring for animals. The theme song to the movie was one of the 6th grade songs at Julia's promotion, so we all hummed along.

After the movie, we grabbed some sandwiches and headed back to the hotel for a lunch on the patio. After some much needed food, and a little down time, I take the kids back to the museum while Brian naps/suffers through his head cold. There is an exhibit on "Fear" and of course the boys head straight for it. It's an interactive exhibit on the body's reaction to fear - pretty cool overall. One attraction simulated the fear of falling - and included a contraption that you were strapped down to. The kids tried it multiple times (due to the lack of lines and crowds!) We end our tour of the museum in another hands on exhibit - lots of physics demonstrations. The kids are in heaven. There is one hands on that measures upper body strength and muscle endurance. On the posted chart there is listed how long an average person can hang in a chin-up. For instance: Age 6-8 male = 18 seconds. Age 9-13 female = 21 seconds. Age 40+ male and female? "Not Recommended." I kid you not. I guess muscle endurance expires after age 39. After that blow to the fragile 40 year old ego, I'm ready to leave. Also, it's closing time for the museum. We have been there all day and still didn't get to every exhibit hall. And the kids don't want to leave. Successful day!

The City Pass (I know, I'm beginning to sound like a City Pass commercial) allows for not one but two! trips up to the top of the Space Needle in a 24 hour period. This means that Brian and I can go up and see the view from the top. Brian meets us at the base, and we walk through the Disneyland ropes all the way to the entrance (because it's a holiday! and there is hardly anyone around!) We head up the elevator and get the spectacular view from the top. I may mention now that it hasn't rained once on this leg of our Seattle journey. The weather has been gorgeous - warm but not too hot. It's at the top where I have a (probably my final) cup of Pike's Place original coffee. You can only get it here - and the original store down at Pike's Place Market. It's still bad. I'm sorry. I tried to like Starbucks in Seattle. I just couldn't do it. I can't even finish it - and give the rest to Aidan. He doesn't like it either.

It's while in line for my Starbucks that I have a close encounter with a group of Lions. As in Lions Club International. As in the biggest convention Seattle's had in years. And they are throwing a parade - the biggest parade Seattle has EVER had - tomorrow, July 5. The day we are leaving town. But more about that later. This particular group is from India - I know this because they are all sporting (in addition to some beautiful saris) the snappy Lions Club nametags and pins. They are not quite understanding the concept of ordering coffee at an American Starbucks. There is much confusion. The men all try to (loudly) take charge of the situation. The women stand back with a calm demeanor and let the men make a potentially common and easy situation all the more confusing and difficult. You can *almost* see their eyes rolling. It's hysterical. I smile and walk away with my horrible cup of coffee. It will be the last Starbucks coffee I ever drink. (I will, however, eat their oatmeal. It's super yummy.)

After capturing a few shots of the city from the outside deck - and confirming that the "Seattle Grace" building is actually the TV station building below us - we head back down the elevators and back to the hotel. It's probably 7:30ish and we still need to eat and make our way to fireworks. (I try, unsuccessfully, to persuade everyone to stay in and watch the fireworks on TV. No dice.) We eat at Dick's, a burger place like In'n'Out. Maybe if you took an In'n'Out meal and dipped it in grease.

Seattle firework viewing is done at Gasworks Park on the banks of Lake Union. We choose to view on the other side of the lake - closer to the hotel, but still about a mile walk away. It's a lovely night and the walk isn't bad at all. We arrive and park ourselves at the first available patch of grass on the edge of the marina, next to the street. The bar across the street has its windows open and they are playing some dance tunes so the atmosphere is festive. We find ourselves surrounded by lots of tourists (and more Lion Club members!) as we wait the hour until the fireworks start. Everyone is sitting on blankets, a few have brought chairs. Then the last minute yahoos come and stand on the sidewalks, thereby necessitating that EVERYONE else must stand in order to see the fireworks in the distance. Ugh. Stupid latecomers ruined it for everyone. If everyone had just sat down, we'd all be able to see just fine. Ed winds up on Colin's shoulders - Julia winds up on Aidan's: a very minor perk of having 2 strong teenage sons? You no longer have to carry your younger children. The fireworks are nice (WAAAYYYY better than Canada day) and the second they are over, we hightail it out of there and beat the crowds (thanks to my strategic planning when we arrived - and the ability to turn a deaf ear to the pleas of "can't we sit closer?")

Beer fest!

We have a bit of a sleep in - we're not up and going til about 10:30. It feels fantastic! We work out some plans for the day which include heading out to the Museum of Flight and Space with Steve and Charles Dulac. It's a bit of a drive from downtown, so we split up and 3 of us go with the Dulacs (who have driven into the city to drop Maria, Sarah and Joey off at the Goodwill to do some shopping. Yes, you read that correctly. I guess the Seattle Goodwill is HUGE, and the pictures Maria sent on her phone confirm this.) Aidan, Julia and I head via taxi to the Flight Museum and meet up with the others at the original Air Force One. As we have just visited the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library at the end of June, it's cool to compare the two planes. (Interesting fact: Lyndon Johnson flew out to Dallas on this particular plane and flew back to Washington in it as the new President.) There is also a Concorde that we can board to take a look at. These are 2 of maybe 6 aircraft parked outside.

Indoors, there are many exhibits and tons (ha!) of planes. The WWII exhibit hall is truly fascinating. Colin spends most all of his time there and in over an hour, I only crack part of it's surface: so much interesting information. The fact that my grandparents met in Army service during WWII makes this part of history especially interesting to me. Ed and I learn a bit about the "Flying Tigers" (plane insignia designed by a Disney animator) and then Ed heads out to another hall to try his hand at paper airplane making/flying. Aidan and Julia follow him (which is great since I've lost Colin and Brian to the depths of the museum) and are entertained for the better part of an hour. I'm able to get through a few more exhibits myself (the hall is full of video excerpts from veterans, which I find completely fascinating. Especially the women pilots - who were dismissed from the WASC during the war and couldn't find jobs as pilots in the private sector, and "Would they like to be stewardess instead?" What?!?) At one point, I try and find Colin - the only one who will answer his phone - and the following exchange via text occurs:
Mom: "Where are you?"
Colin: "WW2 gallery"
Mom: "By what exhibit"
Colin: "Planes"
Ahem. The entire room is Filled. With. Planes. It's a FLIGHT MUSEUM. Smart is *all* *relative*.

After a quick peek at some of the other space craft and planes, and with a cursory walk through of the the space exhibit, we have a fast bite to eat and are ready to get back to the other Dulacs (more accurately, they are ready for us to be done.) Brian and the boys head out to the bus stop for a bus back into town (I have procured a time table from the information desk) and Julia and I hitch a ride with Steve back to Pike's Place Market to meet up with the rest of the Dulacs.

After a bit of discussion, it's decided that the girls will set out on their own and try and find a chocolate shop/coffee place to sit down and have a little pick me up. We check out the Goodwill treasures- and they do have some pretty cool stuff! - and make our way to where Maria thought she saw a chocolate shop. We pass by the original Starbucks and see the line out the door. I have no need to visit for another bad cup of coffee. Instead we buy some great cherries from one of the plethora of outdoor fruit markets. After MUCH walking, and no real success in finding the shop, I see a bus stop and decide to cross over and wait for the free bus, as I don't want to walk back up the hill toward the Monorail. We wait. And wait. And wait some more. And then decide to take a taxi, which turns out to be cheaper than the Monorail would have been for the 4 of us. We ride to our hotel and take a little break in the room. Brian and the boys have just returned from their bus ride and 10 block walk (yeah, I feel a little guilty) so the short rest is appreciated by us all.

Off to the beer fest across the street at Seattle Center, in the shadow of the Space Needle. We've made a plan to send all the kids up in the Space Needle (a little shuffling of kids and tickets is done) while the adults attend the Seattle/Portland International Beer Fest. It's a 3 day festival that we've crashed in the final hours - but as it was a highlight of the trip for Brian, we're glad we can squeeze it in. We keep in contact with the kids via cell-phone (it's so nice to have the ability to check on them, now that we are back continental stateside). The beer fest operates with tickets - each beer is between 1 and 6 tickets and I couldn't begin to tell you how many varieties there were. So it's up to you and your choices on how many times your 4 oz. glass can be used with the 10 tickets you've been gifted from the entrance fee. Some of us splurge on 2 and 3 ticket beers (Wittekerke is only 1 ticket!!! and since my local TJ's has stopped carrying it, I am happy to be reunited with it) and others go for just the 1 ticket beers. I pass on the tangerine tinged lager - it sounds disgusting. While there is mostly just beer at the festival, the wise organizers have also made sure to include some food vendors (and porta-potties). I find a stand that offers...are you ready?... Pork Candy. PORK CANDY!!! How amazing is that? It's really sugar glazed pork jerky, but still, the name says it all and I. Eat. The. Entire. Bag. (Don't worry: it wasn't that big of a bag.)

[I'm just keeping up the pork theme for this summer: I had an amazing meal in Boston that started with fried pork tails and ended with a main dish of pork done 3 ways - with a side of bone marrow. Ahhhh... pig lover's heaven. It's no wonder that my backside is starting to resemble my favorite food...]

While enjoying the last of our beers at a table we've found in the middle of beer fest, we get a phone call from Aidan asking us where we are sitting. We tell him, start waving, and then get the call that they can all see us from up top of the Space Needle. I guess I didn't realize that the top observation deck was open air - and I'm feeling a little nervous that I've sent all the kids up there on their own. Not to worry - they're fine. (NB: I have successfully used "there" "their" and "they're" in the last 2 lines. I'm available if anyone needs a refresher course, for say, facebook posts...)

Beer fest tickets all used up, and Space Needle done, we reconvene and make our way to the large water fountain at Seattle Center. It's not exactly warm outside, yet not cold either. But as there is water shooting out of a large fountain that is easily accessible, Edwin quickly becomes soaked. We say our goodbyes to the Dulacs with promises to meet up in Vancouver.

Danahys head the 2 blocks back to our hotel. Ed changes into dry clothes. We pick up dinner for the kids in now my favorite supermarket of all time and Brian and I head to a Zagat rated Thai restaurant on the corner of our block. The service is ssslllooooww, and the food is decent, but honestly, our local Thai place in Santa Clarita is better. We are home by 9 and Brian is asleep by 9:05 - he's coming down with some bug. He's blaming it on me. I contend that if it were from me, he would have been sicker much sooner than this. So it's not my fault. It never is, actually.

Sleeping in Seattle

We're up early to vacate the rooms to be readied for the next group of cruisers. I glance once last time at my lovely balcony and head down to collect children. We have a final meal on board and proceed to the choreographed removal of passengers and our cargo. Finding all of our bags in the cruise terminal, it's quickly determined that there is no possible way we will all fit in one car/taxi. We wait - a.very.long.time - in the taxi stand and -finally!- split into 2 cabs for the short drive to our Seattle hotel.

We are staying near Seattle Center (and the Space Needle) due to it's proximity to Seattle's International Beer Festival. (No, not kidding.) It's not exactly a cheap hotel (only 2 stars, and not M. Dulac approved: they will be staying out by the airport for a cheaper rate in a nicer hotel) and has much O.W.C. (Old World Charm - Arden Hofler). It's literally across the street from Key Arena. And in the "international district" with a bevy of good restaurant choices. I'm not sure how old the Inn at Queen Anne actually is- but the rooms have a bedroom, small kitchenette, bathroom, and huge closet. Parts are updated, the rest is still back in 1957. It feels like staying at your grandmother's house. We have 2 rooms, one upstairs and one down. The boys are upstairs and Julia is with us. Her bed is in an alcove off main room - ("Look it's the cupboard under the stairs from Harry Potter!," Sarah Dulac) Happily, the lovely staff at the Queen Anne is ready to check us in, even though we've arrived early in Seattle (again) at 10 am at a hotel. We unpack a bit - I am on unsteady legs, a little souvenir from the week long cruise.

We head out toward Seattle Center in search of the Monorail - cutting edge technology at the time, Disneyland ride to us now - and take a remarkably short ride. We end up at a mall - and elect to eat lunch at the food court. Dosed up with McDonald's, the kids are happy. Dosed up with Mediterranean and Indian, so are we. After waffling a bit on Seattle activity possibilities, we decide to purchase City Passes: giving us 6 attractions for a discounted price. Now it's just a matter of deciding what order to visit the attractions.

After a stop at what we think is the first Starbuck's (it's not: and their coffee is still bad - even in the birthplace) we (ironically) pick the harbor cruise as our first attraction. It's the first really sunny hot day of the year for Seattle and it feels good to be out on the water. The kids grump about being on the boat and don't want to go up on deck. They all proceed to fall asleep. I enjoy feeling steady back on a rocking boat and 'get on top' to enjoy the views of Seattle and Mt. Ranier.

Next to the harbor cruise is the Aquarium - and it's the next stop for us after a quick soda and ice cream break. Unfortunately, the walking along the waterfront keeps taking us by an annoying political party group verbally assaulting the tourists and trying to convince us that Obama is as evil as Hitler. Complete with mustached portraits. I'm all for freedom of speech, so I laugh happily at the old man who passes the group with his pronounced middle finger waving in the air at them.

In the Aquarium, Edwin takes a little while to get into it. He's still kind of tired and cranky. But once he gets to the interactive tide pools, he's perked up and we stay until the aquarium closes. We all really enjoy ourselves at all of the exhibits - especially the octopus and sea otters. Making our way up all those steps from the waterfront to Pike's Place Market, whew! we get ourselves back to the hotel via bus. I've been pretty happy with the public transportation system in Seattle: it's a relatively easy city to get around, even with all those hills!

Brian scouts the neighborhood for eating options. He also grabs some breakfast items, and I'm happy we have those mini kitchen closets in our rooms. We order pizza for the kids and have it delivered to the hotel. They eat in the boys room and Brian and I go out to dinner around the corner at T.S. McHughs pub. The Guinness on draught is divine after a long day of sightseeing. Another short walk to the best grocery store in the world: Metropolitan Market. They have and entire deli section devoted to artisnal cheese. Cheese. Next to the cheese? Coffee bar. Heaven!!! It's an expensive store - like Whole Paycheck and Bristol Farms combined - but it is truly the best grocery store this suburban mom has ever been in.

Back to the hotel (and free wifi!) and a well-earned rest - Julia safely tucked away in her cupboard under the stairs.

Oh Canada

It's another almost full day at sea. There's more Bingo with Brian and the kids in the morning. Watching people play Bingo is like watching paint dry. I have earned a free Bloody Mary from the Cruise Director as I am the quickest to raise my hand to be called on to check the Bingo machine to make sure everything is Kosher before the game begins. Woo hoo - let's hear it for long arms and quick reflexes. Bring on the drying paint.

Julia and I head up to the gym to stretch a bit and work on some Tae Kwon Do forms in front of the mirrors. Taeguek 4 on a moving ship isn't easy. The gym is full - which is a bit surprising. The gym has been full the whole cruise. People trying to work off all that eating, I suppose. It's also one of the warmest places on the boat, as the open air pools and even the covered pool areas are cold. I am struck by the presence of television monitors on the treadmills (like the ones at the gym at home): the treadmills face out to the ocean. The monitors obscure the amazing view. Why would you choose to watch TV with such a spectacular view in front of you? Head scratcher, that.

Back to the lounge and some more ballroom! An hour of review of all the dances to date, and since we've missed all lessons but one, it's almost all new to us. I have a fantastic time - and really enjoy myself. Brian is very indulging. Cute Italian (half nekkid talent show act) crewmember happens to be teaching the Zumba class next. Why, yes, of course I'd like to stay for it, thanks! I dodge in an out of the masses - most of whom are rhythmically challenged. Halfway through getting repeatedly hit on the floor, I decide I've had enough.

We get lunch and I force the kids to go to the nature talk by Nature Guy Mike. Nature Guy Mike lives off the land in Alaska. Very natural, Nature Guy Mike. But I swear he either dyes his hair or has plugs, and his face has a certain Barry Manilow quality. His talk topic is of native peoples - of which he is not, by the way. He tells some interesting stories, and basically asserts that women need to take back the managing of the planet as the men have screwed it up. I take a wee nap during the talk - a fact that doesn't escape Aidan, who is not happy that I have dragged him here.

As we are leaving the ship early tomorrow morning, everyone needs to be packed by tonight. No small feat for the kids as their closet is a disaster. The packing extravaganza Part II begins and with all 6 of us helping (me directing/barking orders) we get it done quickly. A buffet dinner at the food court is next - we will miss the dining room tonight as we are docking in Victoria this evening. We only have a few hours tonight in Victoria. The signs and flags in the buffet remind us (again) that it's Canada Day. We've been counseled, several times throughout the day, that Victoria will be crowded (with more than just the two docked cruise boat tourists) and that walking into to town and back is our best bet (Technically, we've been counseled to purchase shuttle tickets from the cruise line excursion desk. The walk to downtown is about a mile and we decide that walking is better aka cheaper.)

After finding our way on to Canadian soil, we set off to find the downtown area and a visitor's centre to get some information on what, if anything, is still open. It's 8:30 pm by now - and the ship departs at 11:30 pm- not a lot of time in Victoria. Brian wants to see "The Castle." I have no desire to walk the 3 miles (yes, miles....I don't do km) and be back in time to see the fireworks for the Canada Day celebration. There is some discussion about what Canada Day actually signifies. I'm sure wikipedia knows. I do not. I'm pretty sure it's *not* Independence. I have to be a little careful here, as I am related to some Canadians. I have to balance a fine line between mocking and appreciating the country - don't want to start a family feud or anything, eh?

As far as I can tell from (probably) beautiful Victoria, BC - Canada Day is about dressing up in red and white - or just wearing a full size Canadian flag if you can get your hands on one - and walking around the streets drinking, smoking and hanging on to your friends. The streets are full with very loud and drunk young Canadians, proudly sporting their country's colors (and writing all over themselves in red lipstick.) There are some families who have come out to stake a place to watch the fireworks, but it mostly resembles a rowdy Rose Parade route on New Year's Eve circa 1989. Julia doesn't like all the people smoking - nor do I - and the crowds of drunken people are overwhelming when trying to keep ahold of a squirmy 8 year old. Brian and Colin take off for "The Castle" (a big stone house, I'm told later) and the three younger kids and myself make our way through the crowds and back to the ship. No real sightseeing. No souvenir shopping. Just weaving through the drunk people. I haven't been able to get ahold of the Dulacs - cell phone coverage? Not so cheap and easy in Canada - and I'm guessing that they are out here somewhere. [They end up staying for the fireworks. They have a different experience than we do: most of their kids "appreciate" the sight of drunk, half-dressed girls wearing "Kiss Me, I'm Canadian" ripped shirts.]

Back on the ship, we get some dessert and sit on the wrong side of the boat to eat it - we miss most of the fireworks. We're told that they weren't all that great. Not like Disneyland fireworks or anything. We head to bed for our last night in our cabins. Back to land tomorrow. It's gone by too quickly, and I'm very sad to say goodbye to the constant supply of food.

Ketchikan - kan- kan

Up early and out we go to our 7:30 AM bus ride - some of us more excited than others. Others of us are slightly terrified. We have picked the zipline adventure in Ketchikan because it is the only one that Edwin is old enough/big enough for. It also has the bonus of being located in the 2nd largest rainforest in the world (waaayyy behind the Amazon in size.) Emphasis on RAINforest, as it's the rainiest day we've had yet on the trip. We board the shuttle bus for the 20 minute ride to the Zipline place. Ketchikan is on an island and as we left "downtown" and skirted around one edge, we were treated to a view of a seawall atopped with resting 30-40 bald eagles. Ketchikan is the salmon capitol of the world. Smart eagles...

Arriving at the Canopy zipline, we are separated into groups and outfitted with snug fitting safety gear. Ed gets taken aside and weighed - he's exactly 70 lbs, the minimum weight requirement! He's thrilled that all of his eating on the ship has paid off. Some of us, ahem, are less than thrilled with the eating on the ship pay-off. Back to gearing up, Aidan clues the staff into the possibility that I am the most afraid one of our family. Edwin certainly isn't, and the other four have already done it. [In Switzerland - with no instructions in English and working all the harnesses by themselves. After today, I'm hit with the realization that the Swiss adventure was super risky/scary/stupid.]

Geared up - we get into the coolest vehicle we've ever seen. Like the jeep from the Jurassic Park movies on steroids. We head straight up a muddy hill to our "test run" where we are "taught" how to be clipped onto a wet, thin, steel cable and have to trust that we'll make it safely to the other side. We are shown how to brake: some of us will learn how to master it, others not so much. We are shown what to do if we come up short of the platform - how to haul yourself hand over hand backwards towards the destination platform. Two of us need to use this method: Edwin for weight reasons; me for premature braking. Edwin is shown how to tuck himself into the "cannonball" position in order to maintain enough velocity to propel himself from one end to the other. The rest of us don't have the lack of weight issues. Especially Aidan who basically takes a jumping start to each ride. There are 2 families in our group - a couple and their teenaged son from Iowa, and the 6 of us. The other family is extremely impressed with Ed's courage to try ziplining - the other boy noting that he would *never* have tried that at age 8. As we all live with Ed, we're not surprised at his bravado and courage.

Thankfully, our guides Jake and Jack keep checking our harnesses after every run and make sure we are always properly clipped in and out of the wires. All we have to do is hurl our bodies down from one ledge to the next. It's really green and beautiful. The rain comes and goes in spurts, but as we are in a rainforest, we're pretty well sheltered. The only time that it gets in the way is when the water shoots off the wire close to your face as you zip down, getting in your eyes and making it difficult to see your guide's hand gestures to "brake. Brake. BRAKE!" Aidan does a 'George of the Jungle' move into a tree once. Colin nearly takes out Jake another time. But other than that, it goes smoothly.

The end of the course contains a free rappel down from a 50 foot platform. It's hard to step off a tree at 50 feet off the ground. They wisely strap Aidan on the line next to me and send us off basically at the same time. When I hear that it's a race, I forget all about the height and kick Aidan's butt by beating him down the rope. Genius - I barely notice the plunging decent as I'm too concentrated on winning - my inner Jackie coming out. Finally, a 250 foot slide awaits us. I almost decline the slide as it sounds too complicated to brake and slow yourself down. Edwin is about bursting with excitement to try it, so I'm shamed into doing it too. Can't wuss out in front of the 8 year old... We climb aboard our awesome jeeplike vehicle again, and say goodbye to the ziplining adventure. It went very quickly, actually. And although it was super-expensive, the whole family has a FANTASTIC time, and it's totally worth it.

Cold and wet, most of us opt not to explore the town of Ketchikan. Same shops, sweatshirts and salmon as the other Alaskan stops. Brian does take the little 2 into the Ketchicandy store to find some treats. I wander a bit, but since I don't have much time (boat leaves at noon) I pass on another brothel tour. Interesting note of the brothel "industry" in Ketchikan: married men had to pay more and they had a separate street entrance to the brother district. Back on the ship, I run into friends of the Dulac's neighbors when I overhear them talking. Small world - but no so small as Princess Cruiseline headquarters are in Valencia, and you're bound to run into someone from home if you're taking a Princess Cruise.

We hit lunchtime separately and then meet up later for Bingo and another trivia game. We call Aidan and Colin to join us during the trivia game, and our team ends up tied for first place, thanks much in part to Aidan's vast and random knowledge. This is what happens when you have a kid who reads a lot: you can win family trivia games on cruise ships. We even beat the Dulacs - probably because Charles wasn't playing. And we beat them because Aidan knew that the first animal in space was a dog, not a monkey. This fact will be confirmed when we all go to the Boeing Flight and Space museum later in the trip. Maria takes over as kid club director and plays cards with the 3 littlest kids while Brian and I go back to our room to hang out.

The kids (except Colin) have all decided to pass on the second formal dinner in the dining room. I'm sure Brian would pass on the formal part if I let him. We get formalized- the sparkly dress comes out, as do the red pumps-and head down to the piazza for pre-dinner drinks and sit and listen to the band play pre-dinner drink music. We enjoy our drinks and the atmosphere of the mostly kid-free area. They announce the last song - AND IT'S THE THEME SONG TO THE LOVE BOAT!!!!!!!!!!!! Holy Crap. How great is this??? It's EXCITING and NEW. I make Brian and get up and dance with me (of course!!!). It should be noted that we are the only ones dancing. Three floors of people watching us. In the middle of the piazza. It is the highlight of my trip so far. Not the people watching us, or embarrassing Brian (but honestly, we've been together almost 20 years - is it really possible for him to be embarrassed anymore by my antics?) but dancing to LOVE BOAT music. The only thing cooler would have been if Charro had been there. (I am a child of the late 70's and 80's and I loved me some Love Boat. Followed by Tattoo and Mr. Rourke, and the plane, the plane.)

Song over, on the way to the dining room, we run into Julia and Ed at the bar (!) ordering drinks. We give them the option of going to the 8:15 show of "British Invasion" together, or go to the room. They choose the show - which turns out to be too crowded, so they end up in the room...I have no idea where Aidan is. Haven't seen him in hours.

It's not the best night for 3 inch, spiked (red!) heels as they boat has started rocking again. Dinner is delish - Only Colin opts to join us. He gets to enjoy beef wellington and lobster... The adults enjoy the extra large bottle of wine. It's a great evening, only marred by the rocking ship. Having finished his meal, Colin takes off to find the other teens. The adults decide to try the "British Invasion" show, and it's actually pretty good. It's not just Bristish Invasion music from the 60's - but Queen, Duran Duran, Wham, Banarama, and the Spice Girls are represented too! Steve and I love it and sing along. Maria sits between us and shakes her head. Brian is asleep next to me.

Brian heads back to the room and I'm once again third wheel on the dance floor with Maria and Steve. (It really does happen with surprising frequency - but not in a Stevenson Ranch kind of way, so get your minds out of the gutter.) The same band is back in the piazza and they have a New Year's Eve-ish party complete with balloons (which land all around on the floor, and frankly, make dancing more difficult.) I am able to dance for approximately 4.5 songs in my red shoes before my feet start to get numb. The ship starts rocking even more, and it's not just the numb feet and balloons that make it difficult to dance. The music ends and the party is being moved to the Skywalker Lounge at the top of the ship. Maria and Steve change shoes and head up to the dance floor. I get my shoes off and head to my bed. I fall asleep thinking that I should probably check on my older boys and make sure they are somewhere safe with all this rocking. Next thing I know, it's morning.

Glacier Bay - Get on Top

Early morning waking - to the voice on the intercom outside the balcony - as we get ready to head up to Glacier Point. We have acquired some Forest Rangers on the boat - and our narrator over the ship's loudspeaker is a drawling Texan. He gives us the history of this area - ice melting, etc. I have my breakfast on the balcony that has been delivered by room service. And my cappuccino that has been delivered by Brian. I am bundled in a variety of strange looking warm weather gear. Brian is in shorts. We call the kids' room (several times) to wake them up. I insist that they get up, even though they all want to sleep in. They can nap later, I say - they can only see this part of the world once (well, only once that I'll pay for...) Ed and Julia come to the room - none too happy - Ed dressed only in a Tshirt. We bundle him in Brian's sweater. The ranger advises everyone to "get on top" ("excellent advice" - Brian) as we approach the tidal glacier. We are starboard side, so we have to get on top to see the glacier as the ship approaches. The ship will then turn on a dime and we can head back to our stateroom for unobstructed views. We head up (grabbing a box of fruit loops for the kids to eat) and join our many fellow passengers to see the big hunk of ice. 22 miles long, receding 8 feet per day, we get a chance to hear it calving and drop chunks of ice into the water. We see a few seals, one hanging out on a chunk of ice, and many birds. Colin joins us as the boat is turning and we head back to the stateroom to watch the ice. I call Aidan and demand he join us for the forced family fun. He is dressed in a Tshirt and shorts. After 5 minutes of ice watching, Aidan is done.

The kids are exhausted because we've let them all stay up late the night before. Ed wanted to try the midnight buffet. We convinced him that the 10:45 buffet was actually the same thing.

We hit another lunch and Colin and I go to the 1:30 nature talk by one of Park Rangers. It's pretty interesting: glaciers, wildlife, ecosystems and all. I head back to the room as there is supposed to be prime whale watching as we head into Icy Strait. We hit the jackpot and get to see many whales and even a pod off in the distance. The kids (sans Colin, who is up on deck watching the whales - god bless him) are in their room probably watching TV ("leave them alone, they're on vacation. And they're not bugging *us*" - Brian) I yell loudly over the phone to Look. Out. Your. Window. NOW! and as I gently encourage my children (for the nth time today) to appreciate where the f*ck we are, a seal swims by right next to us. I see him - and it's super cool. I can't help but wonder what these animals think of the huge ships moving along their waterway. Maybe that we're just a funky looking hunk of ice.

Aidan, Edwin, and Julia are playing a trivia game (and they do pretty well!) in the lounge just before the ballroom dancing seminar starts. We have missed the Merengue and the Cha Cha but have made it today for the Waltz! Brian and I start together, but end up switching parters. I take on a very reluctant Aidan and Brian grabs a game Julia. Ed opts to fall asleep on a neighboring lounge chair. Toby, one the cruise director staff (Fabulously British, darling) leads us through his lesson and Brian and I re-learn some waltz steps while Aidan and Julia get a starter prep course. We all manage to learn together and make it through the basics, but at the end, Brian and I get to dance together as Aidan really has had enough. At one point, the group splits in two and we are able to practice in the back of the room. While taking some video of Brian and Julia, I need to step around a slightly quarreling older British couple who are trying to master the steps also. As I try and step around them, she turns to me with a smile and says sweetly, "Don't mind us, we're just having a bit of a domestic." [How Fantastic is that phrase?????? I will be adding it to my repertoire.]

Julia and I join Sarah and Maria for tea and sit next to some very nice people again. One women from Seattle, when hearing of the Dulac's plan to drive around the Olympic peninsula and take the ferries to Vancouver exclaims, "Oh, no, you don't want to do THAT! That will take far too long, and you'll waste all your time in Seattle. Look out the window right now, and you'll see exactly what you'd see on the peninsula." I shake my head in agreement. What Maria doesn't share, is that one of the prime reasons to drive the peninsula is to visit Forks and Port Angeles. Some of you will understand what that means. Yes, possible vampire sightings.

During dinner (Italian themed maybe?) the boat starts to rock and pitch more than it has on any other day thus far. It makes eating a bit interesting and uncomfortable. The evening is capped off by sending all of our children to bed as we need to wake early tomorrow for our zipline adventure. They are not happy about retiring "early." Happy to retire early, Maria and Steve head off to bed and we go with their kids to the Crew Talent Show in the big theater. It's a rockin' fun evening (literally) complete with festive balloons rocketing around the room and dancing to YMCA. The show is humorous - Sarah and I appreciate the skits that leave the beautiful Italian crewman half nekkid.

Thankfully, at some time during the show, the boat has stopped rocking so violently. Off to slumber land..

Striking gold in Skagway

With no plan for the day, we do the continental breakfast routine in the room again and leisurely get ready to disembark. I believe I have purchased the Skagway disembarkation photo that the cruise line makes you wait to pose for before you can leave the ship. A double bonus chance to make another $20 and slow the disembarkation line down to avoid stampede. [And slow means slow - see old people comment from few blogs back.] I think the picture has a moose in it. As in a crew member dressed as a moose. Brian looks thrilled for yet another photo opportunity.

The cruise dock is a nice walk along the seawall from "downtown" Skagway. Without an excursion already planned, we check into pricing of activity options at the "excursion" hut. Mysteriously, the prices are about the same as on the ship. Hmmm... these people are no dummies. Edwin's age and size excludes us from most of the fun activities - biking, rafting, kayaking. The train ride (the popular option for most people) is 3 hours. At over $100 a piece, we're not sure the train ride is right for our kids - they'd probably all sleep through it. And that's an expensive nap. It has started to drizzle and the wind is picking up, so we opt to stay in town and check out Skagway. Four cruise ships have docked in this little town (population 800) so the raised wooden sidewalks are PACKED.

This town is super quaint, and has a distinct amusement park feel. Complete with "panning for gold" option. Like Knott's Berry Farm. Pay your $20, and real gold is guaranteed! Aidan, Julia and Edwin elect to try their luck at mining. Colin declines and proceeds to read about the history of Skagway from a free newspaper we've picked up from the Visitor's Center. The three kids get their (plastic) mining pans. Curiously, they already have some silt in them before the shopkeep even gets to the trough to demonstrate the proper mining technique. Aidan and I figure out later that the gold flecks that the kids find were put in the pans to begin with, then covered with some dirt. All the panning for the next hour was just basically playing in the water, as there was no gold in the trough. But they were entertained for a while, and took home real gold. Ed certainly scored on this trip! All of this was done in the rain, while the rest of us watched for awhile and toured the shop surroundings (outdoors, with a variety of planters recycled from bathroom fixtures.) I leave for a bit to find good coffee - on a tip from a dock worker back in Seattle - but end up with some bad coffee instead. I will not be successful finding good coffee in Alaska.

On my coffee expedition, I notice tours being given at the Red Onion Saloon. Going for "Mom of the Year," I decide to take Colin on the tour of the former brothel. We leave the minor miners, and make our way down the boardwalk into the crowded saloon. We must wait for 15 minutes until the tour starts, so we take in some of the local color. And by local color, I mean the waitresses in push-up corsets. (What?? I can appreciate a good looking waitress too.) Tours cost $5 a piece and last 15 minutes. Just like it did in 1898. Very authentic this is. I take Colin's picture with the Madame/tour guide. She packs more into 15 minutes than any other docent I've ever had the pleasure to meet. She's both eloquent *and* voluptuous. I was extremely impressed. Some of what we learned: the Red Onion was one of 60 establishments in Skagway's heyday; 15,000 men and 300 women "worked" in Skagway; girls worked from 6pm to 6am, 7 days a week; the girls got $1.25 for each job - the bouncer got $1.25 and the madame got $2.50; the 2nd floor rooms were not insulated and were used year round (our June 28th day was a warm 55 degrees and rainy...); the gold collected for payment was dropped down a hole in the floor, through copper piping and deposited into the safe behind the bar; the Red Onion is haunted by the ghost of Adele, who committed suicide after being branded on her face (to prevent her from working at another establishment) for contracting syphilis; Diamond Lil worked at this establishment and was quite a wealthy woman in her day. There were 2 couples, Colin and myself and a small group of old men on this brothel tour. We were allowed to tip the tour guide in her decolletage: I opted out and just handed it to her with a smile. After I took a picture of 16 year old Colin half lying/sitting across the original madame's bed looking very uncomfortable. Yep, sounds about right. Mom of the Year!!! Woo hoo!!!

Finding the rest of our group - Aidan was pretty bummed to miss out on the tour... - we did a bit more shopping (which hardly seemed possible given the amount of shopping done in Juneau) and Aidan found the hat he'd been searching for, Julia the sweatshirt she's worn every day for the last week (and it smells like it too..) and I found the "Sarah Palin Store." Not kidding. I guess Skagway was Ms. Palin's childhood town. I managed to keep a partially smirk-free face the whole time while purchasing momentous to take home to my father.

And now we're hungry. And wet. And some of us are cold (me). All-we-can eat food is just a mile away back on the ship - which we choose to do rather than fight the hordes of trinket buyers and cruisers in town. The little two kids and the tired parents pay for the shuttle back to the ship. The big boys are made to walk. (Seriously, it's only a mile. If that.) We grab lunch on the ship and then Julia and I head to the indoor pool. I'm supposed to swim with her, like I've promised, but all I can seem to do is take a wee nap on the lounge chair. I try and make it up to her by going to the formal dining room for afternoon tea (I got in the mood for tea at the Palin store...) We are joined by 2 couples - one from Arizona and one from Northern Ireland. It's a lovely tea - but Julia would enjoy it more, she says, if Maria and Sarah were with us. So we plan to ask them to come tomorrow.

To recap: breakfast, lunch, tea, and now it's time for dinner! Because it's vacation! As we have the second seating in the formal dining room, we miss out on some of the evening shows - or at least miss getting to see them with the kids, as a 10:30 show is a bit late for the younger two. (Nothing is too late for Aidan. Too early? Yes. But not too late). So we make the decision to eat early in a different dining room and try and catch the Magic Show at 8:15. The kids decide to eat at the buffet and we are treated to a meal with a honeymooning couple from Georgia. She's stunning - like a Real Housewife, but younger. He's loaded. [$wise, well maybe the other too as he's drinking dirty martinis with dinner. Not wine. Dirty martinis. With food.] I get her talking about her wedding, and she happily retells all the details. It sounded wonderful ("A hell of a mess to clean up for 3 days after," mutters the new husband through the martini.) She wanted to go someplace warm for the honeymoon, like Tahiti. He suggested Alaska. She is less than thrilled. He is paying for every possible expensive excursion to make up for it. Dinner runs long and we catch the very last magic trick of the show. The kids have seen the whole thing, and liked it. We meet up with the Dulacs at the end of their formal dinner, and they've had a great day in the Yukon with their rental car. Ask Maria about the Klondike bars. It's fun.

Juneau, you know? You bet'cha!

BEST MORNING EVER!!! What is better than waking up (slightly head-coldy sick, but feeling a bit better, thanks) to the view of Alaska outside your balcony window? Waking up and finding out you've GAINED AN HOUR during your sleep as you've marvelously sailed into another time zone. My favorite day of the year (setting back your clocks) coupled with a spectacular view! Like Christmas in June.

After a tip from Maria, I clue into another greatness of having a balcony room: continental breakfast delivered to your room and eating breakfast outside with the Alaskan coastline in front of you. During breakfast, and our slow (and quiet!) approach toward the port, we start to notice the icebergs floating around us. To the untrained eye they look like small, light blue boats (ahem...Brian.) To those of us who know things, we know they are huge chunks of ice floating in the frigid waters. And yes, images of "Titanic" come to you (but not *too* graphically, as you have never seen the whole movie. The only person who hasn't, I'm sure.) I am convinced, however, that the coast guard boats we are passing have something to do with the blue nature of the ice. I do not believe for one second that it is a natural occurring color (According to Amy Tam, they are "Windex blue". And she's exactly right.) in nature for icebergs. Even after everyone - including park rangers - have instructed us that it's compacted ice/water molecules that can't process or refract (or some weird science term) the blue, which give them their distinct color. Whatever. I still contend that someone goes out there and throws blue paint on them to keep boats from running into them. (Titanic, anyone? anyone?) What? It could happen.

The fantastic morning continues after breakfast - Brian has booked us a couple's massage at the Lotus Spa on board. We pop for the hot stone option, and are treated to an hour of relaxation bliss. I get the cheerful gal from South Africa who tries mightily to remove the knots from my shoulders ("where I carry my stress") to very little end. Brian has the firm handed Polish gal, who has a strong handshake (and I'm grateful I have the soft handed South African) until Brian discovers that there isn't much strength behind the firm grip. Since he's on vacation, he's already suitably relaxed, no real knots to work out for him! [Is it wrong that I can't remember the name of the woman who spent an hour rubbing me with hot oil? Yeah, I thought so too...] Once we've been oiled up and rubbed down, the hard sell begins: we can purchase all of products used on us today! for one inflated price! or separate inflated prices!

After the relaxation, we gather the kids, prepare for our first dose of Alaska, dress in layers (as recommended by the 'Princess Patter' - ship's daily newsletter) eat a buffet lunch, meet up with the Dulacs and head off the ship around noon. We take some advice and hunt down a shuttle bus to Mendenhall Glacier, about a 20 minute drive from "downtown" Juneau. If you've been to Frontierland at Disneyland, then you've been to downtown Alaska (maybe not Anchorage. I haven't done that place.) Take Frontierland at Disneyland, add the whorehouse history, and you have Juneau...AND Skagway... Ketchikan and Seattle too, for that matter.... The shuttle bus has a local driver who is also a native Alaskan (in the truest sense of the word) and does artwork in the offseason. He narrates (with a delivery that rivals the receptionist of Joel Fleishman) our way through Juneau - pointing out the governor's mansion, among other things, and then adding "Well, then I guess you can all see Russia from here too." We all laughed. And that, my friends, was the one and only anti-Palin instance of the whole week. Judging from the paraphernalia in the (too numerous to even try to count) gift shops, the tour guide speeches, and any other advertisements or such, the state seems generally proud of it's hometown girl. Or they're just very tight lipped about the whole thing. Like keeping your crazy aunt in the attic.

At the shuttle drop-off point we see a very large and dirty piece of ice - it's magnitude somewhat hidden by our position. After contemplating the various hike options, we decide to break into two groups: "the hikers" and "the pseudo-hikers". Guess which group I choose? As the "real" hike is about 3 miles, I make the executive veto decision not to allow Ed to join in. Brian does some eye rolls, Edwin looks crestfallen, but I hold firm. The hiking group takes off and Maria, Edwin and I head down to the water's edge before we start our walk to Nugget Falls. Ed is immediately interested in the rocks and starts trying to skip them into the water. Maria, trying to cheer a sad Ed up, challenges him to a rock skipping contest. She manages to miss the water completely on her first throw - instead hitting Edwin in the leg. They both crack up and then start the contest. Ed wins. We find some mostly melted ice at the edge of the water, and we revel in the fact that we are holding a piece of iceberg. Pretty cool. The walk then takes us down a path and to the waterfall. It's pretty spectacular. And warmer outside than any of us would have ever guessed it could be. At times, it feels almost hot. Hot. Standing next to a glacier. In Alaska. Crazy!

At the falls, Ed is much more interested in gathering rocks than witnessing the awesomeness of nature. When he excitedly calls me over to a bigger boulder, I haul my quickly-expanding, cruise-buffet backside over to him as lickety-split fast as I can. He points to a line of sandstone in the big rock and proclaims that it's gold. Hmmm. Not one to be a TOTAL buzzkill, I agree that it could be. He then proceeds to look for any small pieces of rock that shimmer with gold flecks. He finds several and pockets them - certain that he's just made a cool million. Or maybe just thousands. It changes by the second. Who am I to argue with 8 year old logic? I let him pocket the rocks - even though it's a national park. I just tell him not to take them out and show anyone. It's at this point in our "hike" that Ed agrees that it was a good idea to stay with the moms. We wonder how the rest of the hikers are doing on their 3+ miles, as our 45 minute walk is turning into an hour and a half.

Back at the visitors center - which I swear is swaying, thanks to my inner ear cold issues and the sea legs combined - we check out the displays and ranger talks. No one will use the term "global warming" to describe the cause of the retreat of the glacier. They will use the term "global climate change" as if that's any different. The scientist in the film being shown every 20 minutes (a chance to sit down! hooray!) WILL use the term "global warming." Hmmm. Methinks I will believe the scientist and not the 22 year old National Parks employee from North Carolina who has been here for 3 weeks.

We decide to head back into town - catching a very crowded shuttle bus. We do get to see an extremely unique sight (even though we have to duck our heads to see it as the shuttle is so crowded that we are standing in the aisles.) There, in the distance is an ice field (name escapes me.) In the foreground? Walmart. Seriously. Amazing feat of nature upstaged by amazing feat of capitalism. I would have LOVED to stop at that Walmart. If it had been closer to the ship, I would have totally gone in. In fact, I contemplated bypassing the glacier and going on the Walmart/Costco excursion that was offered on the docks. I have no shame in admitting that. Walmart and Costco are my world as a suburban mom. I have a professional interest in what products are sold in these stores - and I'm sure it would have been fascinating. Completely anthropological and very appealing to me. This time the glacier (and finding gold!) won out. Next time? Walmart.

Back in Juneau, I promise Ed a hot chocolate. After standing in line at the Red Dog Saloon we decide that what we really want is just a coffee shop. Ditching the saloon, we find a coffee shop with fairly decent coffee and hot chocolate with sprinkles and sketchy wifi. Maria can barely log on with her phone - no luck with the laptop she's been carting around all day. Her oldest son is taking a summer school course in college and needs Internet access to receive/send assignments. As he's on the "hike" - we're trying to find decent access in Juneau so that when he's done, he can check in. (Internet access on the ship costs more than my first car did.) I had taken Colin's ipod from him before his hike started - thinking I would need something to distract Ed with. (Thank you, Colin.) Ed happily sat in the shop for almost an hour listening and bopping his head to the Black Eyed Peas. (Thank you, Will.I.Am) We finally gave up on trying to get connected (to the real world!!!) and headed back toward the ship - stopping at one gift shop. Amazingly, Ed picked out one souvenir. One. Total. After I said he could pick one. One. (People with children are shaking their heads in amazement at this right now.) God bless him. And then we found some gold leaf in a vial that we bought for him, so that he could have some real gold. Or in his mind, add it to his collection from the hike.

Back at the ship, I signed Ed into jail - aka kids' club - so I could have an hour of peace and quiet to take a shower and rest. Ed, Maria and I went to the formal dinner. (We had second seating at 8:15.) The last we had heard of the "hikers" - they had done their 3 miles, then did the Nugget Falls hike that Ed, Maria and I did - and caught one of the last shuttles back to Juneau where they checked out the Red Dog Saloon. Brian and Steve had beers at the Saloon and sent all the kids to the coffee shop to try the internet and see if Paul could get his classwork downloaded. Yeah. The dads did some great parenting. I'm helping my kid sneak gold out of a National Park and Brian sends the other 3 to roam the streets of Juneau while he sips a beer in a former whorehouse. So when we make it to dinner on the ship, we really don't know who, if any of them, will be joining us. Our waiter, Mario likes to call Ed "Boss" and as Ed's the only male there for a while, he enjoys the title tonight.
The hikers drift in to the dining room in small groups. It seems that after all the Red Dog Salooning and Coffee Shop interneting, they all felt the need to hit every souvenir shop between the Saloon and the ship. And I couldn't even guess at the number of shops that would be. And Brian thought that the formal pictures were torture? Yeah. Shopping was worse.
So another great dinner. Maybe fish. Probably fish. I ate a lot of fish. Two bottles of wine (not ones that we brought on either. With a $15 corkage fee, the wines on the ship turn out to be about the same cost as the ones we brought on.) And then to bed. Early again.

Day 3 - Day at Sea

After a bit of a late start in the morning (head cold) I get myself turned completely around and can't find the dining room - so I go and get Aidan to show me. He has already roamed the entire ship and has figured the whole thing out the night before. He mentions his night and states he's not going back to the teen center as he was picked on. I just listen and try to be supportive and then basically tell him to suck it up, he's got 7 more days out here. Colin finds us at breakfast. There's a lot of trying to figure out where kids are: Brian thinks I'm a little nuts for wanting to know where the kids are all the time. Call it the mother in me, but I can't relax unless I know that they are relatively safe and not floating in the ocean.

The day is a lazy day at sea... swimming in the heated pools; exploring the ship; using the steam room and jacuzzi in the "adult section" While there are many kids on the ship, this cruise has definitely attracted the "mature crowd" and by that I mean the old. Lots of old people. Good luck if you get stuck walking behind one and you are in a hurry. Julia has her only good day in the kids' club when she finds a group of girls to do nails with. Ed has less success as "there's only girls, mom!" and there is only so much access to the Wii.

On the advice of Maria, we are dressed and ready for dinner a good 2 hours before - so we have time to take (and stand in line for) the formal pictures. We get to take pictures at 2 different backgrounds (I thought we'd have time for more) and sadly the only ones that turn out (without goofy faces) are the ones in front of the cruise ship backdrop - complete with bear in the background. Brian looks as if he's being literally tortured as we wait in line: pictures are not his favorite. I convince him that it's only this one night and he sort of believes me. As we wait in line for the pictures in the piazza, there is a band playing and a champagne waterfall photo op. There are appetizers circulating and free champagne, so the atmosphere is lively. Not a bad way to wait for pictures! ("Torture," comments Brian. And Colin.)

Dinner is another lovely affair. We will be the last people at the dining and this will continue through the whole cruise. We literally close down the dining room. The kids seem to enjoy the dinners as much as we do. The food is great - I can't remember all of it, nor did I photograph it. Suffice it to say, cheese was a prominent fixture in every meal. Dessert too. And the food was extra rich. And every night had some kind of chilled soup that mysteriously resembled a blended drink you'd find on a Carnival cruise. We get to know our waiters, and they are a great pair, Mario and Ricardo. Out of all the staff on the ship, we get to know them the best, and like them the most. As we sailed north, the sun stayed out later and later, and was still light out at 10 pm. Our tables were right next to the dining room windows so we were gifted with great views and natural light at every dinner.

Bedtime again for me and some of the kids. Aidan stayed up so late every night. I don't want to know how late, really. Some days, I don't know if he even went to bed... although there were days when he slept at such odd times during the day, that the kids' room never got cleaned. At one point, we kicked the kids out just so they could get the bathroom cleaned. But it's vacation. By the 3rd day on the boat, the room looks like a tornado hit the closet. Managing the clothing is not their collective strong point.

Settle Day One - Underground

Seattle Day One: found us shuttling our way to the Tukwila Embsssy Suites at 10 AM. After rearranging and storing the numerous bags we brought, we shuttle back to a light rail station to make the ride into downtown Seattle. It's a sunny but cool (cold) afternoon. After splitting up for lunch - kids had pizza, grown ups had Italian - we set off to explore the underground world of old Seattle.

Original Seattle was built on some kind of tide flats surrounded by hills and would flood twice a day. A fire leveled the town, and while some was rebuilt where the previous structures stood, the rest of the town decided to gradually raise the streets (and sewer lines!) to prevent flood and leaking sewage. Phew! Our guide had a teenaged boy sense of humor, so needless to say, Brian and the rest of my kids thought all the crapper jokes were hysterical. What I got out of the tour was this: Seattle used to be populated by whores (who I like to refer to as the the original capitalists) and gold miners; Pioneer Square is now an historic site = buildings can't be worked on without serious paperwork/legalities and therefore leaving seeming prime real estate left to decay. Lucky for the tour, the decaying buildings actually give tourists something to shell 16 bucks out for. The best part of the tour was the gift shop, where I was able to purchase a heavy suede-like jacket for 29.95. A steal! And now I won't be cold on the trip. Of course, the second I purchased the jacket, the temperature turned warmer and I ended up carrying it for the rest of the afternoon.

One of the reasons that Seattle is such a great/green town is the public transportation. Never one to hesitate to get on a bus, we found the right bus to take us to the Pike's Place Market - a crowded touristy affair. We saw one fish tossed, used the bathrooms, bought some soda, and called it a day. We'll return on the 2nd part of the Seattle trip. I have my eye on a spectacular looking crab roll (not sushi, but the Pacific Northwest version of the popular New England treat.)

Back to the hotel for "Happy Time" as Ed has been known to call it. Free drinks and snacks for a 2 hour window. Colin and I walk to Taco Bell to get dinner and get hit by rain on the way back fairly soaking ourselves in the process. Taco Bell and some TV, and we were all ready to hit our pillows.
[Julia and Colin together with me and Brian in the room with Aidan and Ed on the sofa bed out in the living area. It's always best to separate the snorers...]

Day 2 - Hauling a backpack full of wine

Breakfast and packing on day 2 of the trip. We have thrown away the underwear that is dirty - I really am trying to lighten the load as we go... Brian found a Target on his morning jog and after breakfast he and I head out for the mile walk to get a few last minute items. Like wine. For us and the Dulacs.

It's at this point that I am happy for Julia's backpack purchases last summer. Before she started 6th grade, I convinced her that she would want to use a rolling backpack for the year, as she would have many books to take back and forth to school (not my first time at the 6th grade dance). She agreed, and when she found a $70 cute Jansport bag, I tried to talk into the less expensive Target version. She held firm, pledging to pay for half of it, arguing that she could use it when she went on vacation as a suitcase. So when getting ready for this trip, I remind her of her argument of using it for vacation travel. She was less than pleased, as she had already packed her other cute backpack. Flash forward to the Target shopping expedition of 2011. I'm happy to report that the Jansport backpack easily holds 5 bottles of wine, plus various other small necessities, and that the mile walk back to the hotel was quite easy.

After a minor mix-up with our transportation needs from hotel to ship ("No, our family of 6 plus luggage can't fit into your sedan. Please send the SUV that we ordered yesterday." simultaneoulsy with "No, Brian, I will not consider taking public transportation with all of our crap across town.") we made it to the docks slightly ahead of the Dulacs, who left Los Angeles on the correct day of departure. Meeting up with them, transferring their 3 bottles of wine to them, and then not being questioned by anyone in security about the wine, it occurs to all of us (too late) that there was really nothing stopping us from bringing more wine onto the boat. Alas, the 5 bottles will have to be supplemented throughout the week.

Getting on board was an adventure. The kids are in a stateroom on level 5 FORWARD - just off the portrait gallery. Yes, Ed must go through the portrait gallery to get to his stateroom. Every. Time. The portrait gallery is having it's bargain sale tomorrow - everything under $700 is a bargain sale. This seems like poor planning to me on the part of Princess. [But it does make it easy to find his room: "Turn left at the picture of Edward from Twilight, Dad" "Um, Ed, that's James Dean." "Whatever!" Ed replies.] I should say - the 3 little kids are in the stateroom on 5. And me. My "cruise card" is for the kids' room, as I'm technically assigned a room with my children. It's the room we got through the family and friends deal - and they're funny about selling cruises to a room full of minors. (Although a room full of miners would be just fine. It's all about spelling and punctuation, people.) So Colin and Brian are on level 12 AFT. That's a whole lot of ship between the rooms. I'm a little concerned about this. Safety drills (separately) are done and after we have been fully mustered, we're left to our own devices until the sailaway.

Now is the point of the vacation when what I thought might be a little bit of allergies is turning into FULL BLOWN HEAD COLD. Complete with fever and chills. Shhhh. Don't tell Princess. I shouldn't even be on the boat. I am washing my hands and using the mandatory hand sanitizer like crazy. And taking cold medicine. Lots of it. Sadly, to no avail. I do, however, quickly find the beverage section of the buffet. There's quite a variety of teas (along with appalling coffee), hot water and lemon. If I just go right around the corner, the lovely Isaac wannabe happily will sell me a shot of brandy. Hot Toddies here I come!!! (Hey, they're medicinal)

And here's the portion of the cruise that is understandably yet always surprisingly annoying: it's not enough that the cost of a cruise could easily bankrupt a small island nation. No. The additional fees - in every possible form - assault you as if you were actually living in a QVC commercial. We have paid for 3 "kid friendly" drink packages (complete with bendy straw and Coke insulated tumbler) at $49 each (plus tax and tip!!!) Only 3 were purchased because Aidan took off on his own and wasn't with us. Colin, Julia and Edwin now must drink $7 of soda, juice and shakes PER DAY in order for us to "get our money's worth." This is not something I would normally do. I don't usually pay $150 for soda in a year let alone a week. I'm the mom who makes her kids order water with meals out. I could have another Kindle for the amount we just paid. For soda. Brian points out that it will make our lives easier for the week. OK - that almost makes up for it. Maybe it was the cold medicine that made me say yes. [Aidan eventually got his drink package a day and a half later. He charged it to his cruise card himself. Signed for it. And gave extra tip "just to round it up and make it even, Mom." "AIDAN!!!!!! Tip was ALREADY INCLUDED you numbnuts!!!n That's what 'gratuity' means!"]

The constant hawking of wares (I don't really count the alcohol, since that was a given) and services is a bit off-putting. The Dulacs have noticed that on this cruise (unlike the rather garish, yet fun-loving Carnival staff) the crew seems slightly rude when you don't want to purchase what they have to sell. While the life as a crewmember on a cruise ship is not an easy one, I know, (and some are less easy than others, like the constantly working room stewards) I am far less sympathetic to their plight when they get snippy because I won't shell out even more money.

I finally get to see the stateroom where I am staying. Balcony room! I didn't realize what a big deal this was. I thought the kids' room with a view was pretty cool, after only ever staying in inside rooms. But this room is the coolest. I booked it several months back at the normal rate, but didn't specify where I wanted my Forresterish "room with partially obstructed view". For that indecision, I was blessed with a killer upgrade - free of charge. Woo hoo!!! It's like getting bumped from the last row seats to 5th row center at a Vegas Barry Manilow concert. Only better. King bed, huge closet and BALCONY. The magnitude of the coolness will not hit me for a few days, but I'm still pretty impressed.

Dinner is late seating with the Dulacs - adults at one table, all kids (with 21 year old Paul Dulac, bless his heart) at a neighboring table. It's a delightful meal. I remember very little of it. There was cold medicine. There was wine. There was cheese. (OHHHHHH the cheese on this trip. I have eaten it at every meal. I loooovvvveee it so much. I even turn European and have it for dessert.) There was going to bed at 10:30.